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November 20, 2000

Please pass the caterpillar stuffing

By Jennifer McNulty

Instead of turkey and mashed potatoes, imagine filling your holiday plate with fried spiders and rattlesnake. Sound yucky? Welcome to the world of food preferences, where what is considered delicious--and disgusting--is more a matter of culture than most people think.

Photo: Joy Von Tiedemann for Canadian Living
"People feel very strongly about what they will and won't eat," said sociologist Dane Archer. "Westerners cringe at the thought of some Asian cultures that eat dog meat, because dogs are sacred in our culture. But Hindus feel the same way about cows and are horrified by the 'dead animal' racks in our supermarkets."

Food preferences and taboos are extremely emotional and value-laden, said Archer. People tend to regard their own diet as sensible and the diets of other cultures as bizarre or irrational, all of which makes food a "powerful way to teach about cultural diversity and tolerance," he said.

Archer, a professor of sociology at UC Santa Cruz, has produced a new educational video about food, entitled A World of Food: Tastes and Taboos in Different Cultures. The engaging 35-minute video features interviews with people from different cultures and undercuts the dominant Western view that "what we eat is normal and what everybody else eats is strange."

The video describes the prohibitions against certain foods in the major religions of the world and presents a seven-rung food ladder, or "hierarchy of eligible foods," that ranks what is considered edible, delicious, and disgusting in various cultures. Viewers learn the critical lesson that all cultures, including American culture, consume foods that people in other cultures see as highly debatable, inherently disgusting, or simply too bizarre to eat at all.

"Many staples of the American diet, from hamburgers to Jell-O, are repulsive to non-Westerners," said Archer. "Once people appreciate that, it's easier to regard other cultural food choices with less suspicion. American food occupies one small point on a broad spectrum of possible diets."

As described in the video, the traditional Thanksgiving meal of turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce caused misery for a Filipina who had recently emigrated to the United States. In the video, her daughter describes the woman's desire to be a polite guest despite the disgust she felt about the food she was served. After managing to consume her portion, she had to excuse herself to the bathroom, where she became physically ill.

Western viewers may recoil at descriptions in the video of tacos made with cow eyeballs, meals that feature an animal's entire head, and "chocolate meat" (pork cooked with pig's blood and intestines), but they'll likely be surprised by interviews in which a young man of Mexican heritage describes the repulsive combination of celery and peanut butter, followers of Islam marvel at the prevalence of pork in the American diet, and a Hindu man describes the humiliation he felt upon learning that the Jell-O he is fond of is made with gelatin from cow hooves.

Archer, who has produced a series of videotapes about nonverbal communication, said he tackled the subject of food prejudice as a way to address the themes of cultural differences and misunderstandings that emerged in his work on communication.

"The key to the system is understanding that wherever you are on the food ladder, chances are you consider the lower rungs morally disgusting," explained Archer. "And wherever you are on the ladder, someone is viewing your choices with disgust, too. Understanding that hierarchy helps break down all those ethnocentric assumptions that 'our way is the right way.'"

Or, as a Hindu woman in the video put it: "Every Hindu is taught to respect everyone's culture, because we are all rivers that come into an ocean."


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